the art of departure

It’s departure day and we catch glimpses of possible fellow adventurers over breakfast. A game between Trevor and I begins - who else is on this journey? There’s a buzz of excitement and nervousness, not unlike the first day of school. 

After checking out, we turn and find the lobby has erupted into a kaleidoscope of young girls in kimonos and boys in smart suits. The atmosphere is giddy with happiness. Today is Coming of Age Day, a national Japanese holiday marking the passage into adulthood. This celebration has roots reaching as far back as 714. 

Signs displaying our departure are thrust into the air and we follow them like sheep. 

A collection of buses swallows up 200 travelers eager to begin this adventure. To suitably mark the occasion we are whisked to The Garden of Eight Views, Happo-en. Sounds of the koto, a traditional stringed instrument, welcome our ears first. The rest of the senses follow with the sight of a room filled with flowers and a captain’s receiving line. The taste of cocktails and aroma of lunch pull us further into this invitation. 

Geisha grace our presence and we are given time to slowly walk the hibernating gardens with champagne in hand. Upon returning from our stroll, the doors to a banquet hall are opened to reveal a beautiful Michigan star luncheon. 

After finding a seat at one of many circular tables, a Saki barrel-breaking ceremony begins ( kagami-biraki ) to wish health and well-being to all during this journey. We all shout ‘kanpai’ in cheers. 

To my right is a lovely woman from Germany who is a serial world cruiser. She shares stories of her time at sea and bridge tournaments played with people from across the globe. She has kind eyes and a wonderful sense of humor. Trevor is starting a bromance with a gent to his left, a Scot named Scott. New friendships in their infancy. 

The courses begin and are delicately presented, some in handmade wooden boxes. From picked ginger sprouts to A5 wagyu beef, our tastebuds are given the red carpet. A few glasses of wine in and the room is buzzing with conversation. Just before dessert is served a performance delivered by the most adorable and talented kids commences. They have traveled 4 hours on the bullet train to share their talents with us and it’s delightful. After a cup of coffee, we are all nicely full and ready for a nap on the coach delivering us to the port of Tokyo. 

Seeing our ship for the next 5 months is moving, Silver Dawn dips elegantly as she awaits our arrival. Her exterior is pristine, you can hear quiet reverence whispered throughout our coach. 

After a quick embarkation process, we find our deck and suite. There, all our luggage awaits to be unpacked - a job that takes 2 hours of dedicated sorting and space finding. I am grateful for all the nooks and crannies! 

A knock at the door gives pause and we meet, our butler for this journey. He has a round and friendly face with a warm smile and is happy to help in any way he can. 

There are a few challenges, yet, it is the first day and we are all collecting at the same time. I see our butler has a small book in hand filled with notes from guests, he is a man with mountains of patience! Dinner is a welcome reprieve after a flurry of organizing, a chance to exhale and enjoy. After a stroll around the top deck to take in the evening air, we look back at Tokyo with a full moon overhead. 

We make our way to the observation deck to watch as Silver Dawn sets sail. Gently and silently we pull away from port. 

Tonight the ship sleeps deeply as we head for Osaka. 

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sea legs and formal nights

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when in Rome