durban - falling back in time
Smells of warm sand mixed with salt saturates the air. The energy feels delicious with a rich texture to it, one I’ve never felt before. We have arrived in South Africa.
As the coast of Durban comes into view, a helicopter flies towards us like an arrow then hangs above by a few feet. A mariner pilot is ejected and we sail on into port with his knowledge. Quite the excitement - and all before breakfast!
Today, we will visit the iconic Oyster Box Hotel and we are giddy to get out and set foot in South Africa.
An elegant black Mercedes pulls up with a sharply dressed chauffeur to collect us. He takes a scenic route, past beaches that rival those in California. Like two kids we are glued to the windows as the scenery of Durban scrolls by.
Now, I must take a sidebar to preface this next moment - so bear with me.
Two stunning humans hosting on our ship extend an invitation to their family home in the next port. We are invited to a South African braai. A braai is similar to a BBQ, and also, a BBQ pales in comparison. We are wildly honored and promptly accept!
En route to The Oyster Box, I see a sign that makes me do a double take. It reads: Trevor got naked at the braai. Wait, WHAT?!
This is very specific, and also, is this a prediction? I guffaw and tell Trevor signs point to a very good time at the braai!
‘Naked’ turns out to be an insurance company out of Johannesburg with brilliant and cheeky marketing.
But I digress.
After a good laugh with our driver, we arrive. The car door opens and I fall back in time to an era brimming with charm and elegance. This feels deeply familiar to my soul and I know the moment I arrive I will be back here again. A dapper young man points us in the direction of the palm court where high-tea has been waiting from across time.
We are led past a long table covered with sensational sweet and savory treats. All sit under cloches like eatable art on pedestals of varying heights. High above, vintage Balinese fans keep the room cool in every definition of the word. Sounds of whimsical piano and bird song mingle with light chatter as we are seated around a regal table. Our server for the afternoon will be with us promptly.
A gentleman with kind eyes and a big smile welcomes us with a bottle of champagne to celebrate our first visit to South Africa. We discover this soul is a magical storyteller and have the privilege of sharing the afternoon in his company.
Tucked away in a quiet corner we enjoy deliciousness across the senses - gastronomy, conversation, art, melody and all held in this bubble of the past. We stretch this moment to its capacity.
Before our ride back is due, we are given a private tour of the grounds. Since the walls cannot speak for themselves, our guide becomes the teller of the tales these walls have collected.
The walls have also collected art from across the globe. To spend enough time with each piece, one would need at least a week.
Our tour culminates with a stunning view of the beach crowned with a vintage lighthouse. I don’t want to leave, yet, our driver is ready and kindly waiting for us. We step back into the sleek black car to be returned to the ship and exit this bubble in time.
The only way to know this was not a dream is through the treats we were sent home with.
Tonight we are treated to Zulu Warrior Dancers who share their earthy, raw, chanting, and wild dance that charms the entire room for an hour. What an introduction to South Africa!
Tonight we sail on to Port Elizabeth.
