maldives - a great dichotomy
Drifting into the Maldives brings layered excitement as Trevor and I have dreamt of visiting from lifetimes ago. Up early, we grip the railing on our veranda as the sun washes over the horizon.
Each of the 20 atolls that make up this collection is ringed in blue. A blue so vibrant it resembles the color of melted popsicles from childhood. Expansive halos hang in the water and I wonder what might happen if we sail into the middle of one - would we be transported to a hidden location? My imagination splinters into possibilities and hope.
Breakfast is set up in our suite by one of many who takes such good care of us. He too is excited to be here for the first time and we chatter away like kids.
Today, the ship is anchored away from shore, we will tender into port across a highway of water. Tiny shuttles are readied and clusters of humans pile in. This is the first time we feel the waves so intimately, a great contrast to our ship which is like a massive vintage Buick with full suspension. Our friendly, cartoon-shaped shuttle bobs toward Male with the grace of an inflated pufferfish.
Once ashore, we are herded into a few speed boats promising a paradise island experience. These are the taxis of the Maldives and all race across the expanse like bucking broncos. Crashing through the waves, we fully leave the water a few times. This feels like an amusement park ride. Also, we glance back to check on fellow travelers as most we have picked up on this segment of the journey are quite senescent.
Our manic water taxi slows and we cross a liquid gradient of deep blue into vibrant aqua. The blue is so pure I feel like a saturated Photoshop filter has been placed over my eyes.
Reaching shore, we break away from the masses and seek out a quiet part of the island to enjoy. The sand is bejewelled with puka shells and large crabs line up and hopscotch across rocks.
The sun is strong and we seek shelter. The main part of this island is a man-made contrast to the natural beauty. Garish restaurants that have closed or are under renovations line the walkway. It has the feel of a washed-up mini downtown Disney.
A beach club with shade and some amenities reveals itself. It looks inviting and we accept.
Walking across the shore, I cannot help but feel wild confusion towards my fellow humans. On a stunning island where one could gaze at the horizon for hours, people are flopped down on giant bean bags with faces pressed to phones watching insta-meta-X-tok.
We order a drink and see this space is homogenized. A sad contrast to the natural beauty around - the energy is way off. My poker face is terrible and Trevor can feel disappointment consume me. He provides space for me to swim out and float away for a solo moment. The water is warm and salty providing extra buoyancy, I let the ocean wash off the feeling of despondency.
This is not who we are or how we wish to experience the magic of the Maldives. The wild water taxi returns and we cue to escape back to the ship. Today has been a learning experience. Though in a jewel of a location, it’s not always magically awesome.
After a good discussion and a glass of champagne on our private veranda, we talk excitedly about coming back in our way.
Also, I will personally plan private excursions from here on in. One gets to choose how the experience goes.
