ha long bay - limestone dragons
Islands that resemble the backs of half-submerged sea dragons surround us. My pajamas are still warm and creased from slumber. I rub the sleep from my eyes, it’s 6:30 AM and my hair is a lovely half-up half in my face bedhead style. Standing on our veranda, I am half awake and astonished. The mist is heavy and other-worldly. Am I still dreaming?
Trevor is awake bouncing in full Tigger form and very excited at our surroundings. He is born caffeinated. Both of us have seen these islands in all forms of media, to actually voyage through this archipelago is beyond magical.
We gently glide into Ha Long Bay, careful not to wake anything that might be slumbering below the surface. Brunch with a full view of the lively harbor has us carefully observing the crisscrossing traffic, barely missing each other. As the ship is tethered we finish mimosas with freshly squeezed sunshine. Must keep the scurvy away!
After a stamp of approval from uniformed port authorities, a very enthusiastic guide collects us for a journey to Cat Ba Island. We join the lively harbor traffic.
Cat Ba sits hidden amongst the thousands of islands and is teaming with similar craft. Ship horns blare at each other as daring maneuvers are pulled, the scene reminds me of taxis in downtown New York.
We are extracted and set on shore where stairs carved in limestone invite everyone to climb. Like obedient school children, we walk single file to the mouth of this mountain and one by one are eagerly swallowed. Once inside, a massive cathedral of stalactites and formations are on display. Where do I look first? It’s a few degrees cooler and the air is pure tasting of ozone.
We snake through open-mouthed in awe trying to take this all in. What an unexpected center!
Everyone exits the limestone grotto, but not before being introduced to the formation that looks like a giant breast. We are urged to touch it for good luck, especially as today is Chinese New Year.
We board our water taxi and drift further into this collection of islands that feel like we’ve landed in Neverland.
Did I just see Captain Hook’s ship? Peter Pan will zoom past anytime now.
Various islands are pointed out for their shape - a dog, two chickens kissing, and a giant thumb. Well, that one looks rather phallic. We are taken past 'limestone money island’, famous for its portrait on a Vietnam banknote. The helmsman tries to get us up close, too close, we hit something and the boat shakes wildly. For a moment I think this island might be our new home after having to abandon ship! All is okay.
Sailing back to home base in the sunshine, we share stories with fellow travelers, the islands listen in.
We are told of a super typhoon named Yagi that hit five months ago. Our guide points to a Ferris wheel in the distance that lost all 25 of its passenger pods in this storm. They blew right off. A giant red circle now stands on its own.
Docking among a fleet of boats we are herded into golf carts that race each other back to our floating home. Time to cheers to the Chinese New Year and tuck in for sleep.
When midnight hits, I am famished. I fancy some room service. While Trevor sleeps, I enjoy a lovely picnic in bed.
Why not?
