okinawa - where centenarians abound

An adventurer-sized breakfast is needed today as we have a big journey ahead of us! Eggs, bacon, an aside of waffles with REAL maple syrup, coffee, and mimosas are all tucked away. A hum of excitement dances through the bistro as many on-shore excursions will be leaving soon.

We have arrived in a blue zone, where centenarians run wild! To keep them safe and driving, there are special stickers for anyone over 75 displaying an autumn leaf. It is punishable by law to honk at anyone displaying this sticker. 

The first stop on our Okinawa journey is to Sefa Utaki where women priestesses have been the spiritual guardians to the island for millennia. This is a sacred space in nature, we are asked to introduce ourselves and state the purpose of our visit aloud to the spirit world we are about to enter. After a respectful bow, one can cross the threshold. 

Men were not allowed here until recently, we are told even kings had to dress in women’s clothing to be permitted in. Everyone whispers with reverence as the energy collected and cared for over time brings a great sense of peace.  Lion status called Shisa can be found hiding everywhere and are guardians, protecting the inhabitants from evil spirits. They come in pairs and work together, the male with the mouth open to catch happiness and the female with the mouth closed to keep happiness.

After a stroll through this sanctuary, we are fed lunch. Not just any lunch, a Japanese box lunch that is crafted with such care and attention I am afraid to eat it.

While we dine in the coach we are relocated to the Valley of Gangala, where we fell back to the beginning of time, very primitive, wild, and jurassic-like. As we crest the first hill, a cave filled with massive stalactites and dripping in vines comes into view. A few of us curse aloud at such an unexpected sight.

This location is only accessible through a guide and we follow ours slack-jawed in awe as every shade of green is on display. From ginormous bamboo towering overhead to banyan tree roots spidering across whatever they can grab. Here everything grows on everything, there is not a bare section of soil to be found. Winding through this scene is a river with hints of sunlight dancing with the flow. 

Our guide races ahead to the mouth of the next cave, there he prepares oil lanterns and hands them out. We follow him into the black as he tells us this is called ‘man’ cave and we soon discover why. A massive penis-shaped stalactite hangs down, and also, appears to be circumcised. People seeking to have children come here to pray, I stay a good distance away. Everyone proudly poses with this limestone formation before we continue. 

I’ve seen many magical trees in my life, but nothing prepared me for this 150-year-old banyan tree perched on the lip of a cliff, its roots secured tightly to the valley floor. These trees are sacred hosts to spirits, I can see at least a dozen looking back at us from between the branches. Does anyone else see them? I see Trevor waving at them. 

This visit is beyond enchanting and we stumble back to the coach drunk on wonder. A short ride back to our floating village and we say farewell to Okinawa as we sail under a lethargic sun. 

Our journey through Japan has been similar to tapas or an omakase. Sampling bites of Japan that leave me hungry to spend lengths of time here. We will return! 

Now, on to Xiamen, China. Given the political location, we are given warnings about the internet service. There are strict policies here.

Fascinating!