lisbon - hello old friend
I LOVE Lisbon!
For months I have been waxing lyrical about this magical city, to an eye-rolling point. Today, I finally get to prove to Trevor how deliciously wonderful it is.
Sailing up the Tagus I am bouncing with excitement as this feels like a sort of homecoming. Lisbon from this angle is akin to looking at a giant popup book. The hills display layers of tiled buildings crowned with forts of all descriptions.
Spilling out of the port we weave our way through a warren known as the Alfama District. Cobblestone smoothed by centuries of footsteps cover the uneven ground and buildings are clothed in beautifully painted tiles. Repairs are done with charming imperfections that only add to the character.
Lisbon is a concert for the senses with a unique world waiting behind every door. Some doors you crouch down to enter, others create a grand entrance, and not one is the same.
We stroll through squares filled with fountains with status having unusual water fights. Cafes are brimming with refreshments and conversation as bubbles float past in silence. We ascend and descend repeatedly while trolleys and tuk tuks chauffeur past.
Halfway through one ascent, a refreshment kiosk greets us nestled in a dapple-lit square - it’s pointless to resist. Before a well-earned glass of wine is ordered Trevor is initiated with a shot of Ginjinah ( sweet, tart cherry liquor ) and a pastel da nata ( creamy custard snuggled in a flakey pastry cup ).
Refreshed from this respite we continue along sprawling tree-lined streets flanked by luxurious vendors. We browse the latest Patek Philippe has to offer and the European spring trends at Max Mara.
The city plays a happy symphony as the sky begins to dim. Sunsets here are spectacular and it’s a well-known ritual to find a viewpoint while day gives way to night. We are booked in at the Tivoli Hotel rooftop sky bar called Seen, a perfect sunset stage while we dine on traditional cuisine with a twist. With a sexy atmosphere, delicious food, and full window views of the city - it does not disappoint!
Before we turn in for the night I check to see if an old haunt is still open. By The Wine is hopping and we get the last seating in a cozy corner perched on stools around a wine barrel. The ceilings here are stunning with thousands of emerald green wine bottles lining the arches above.
Dark chocolate cake paired with the perfect glass of red wine finishes off the night. When Trevor discovers a glass of really good wine in Lisbon is $4.00 ( $11.50 for the bottle ), he almost falls over.
‘IS THAT ALL?!’
At this point, he is ready to jump ship and stay forever.
We continue back and the night turns into a bit of a bootcamp with some decent hills. Yes, there is a funicular, but we need to walk off the day’s indulgences. Trevor is game, though I hear a lot of quiet swearing, especially as the funicular passes us on the way up.
Tonight we sleep well!
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With one more afternoon before sailing on, the plan is for a leisurely stroll ( no more hills ) and lunch at the only Four Seasons Ritz in the world.
Arriving early, we are ushered into old-school elegance for a pre-lunch cocktail. A dark wood-paneled lounge holds an art collection that would make a museum blush. Once ready, we are escorted to the Veranda Restaurant with the most elegant spread I have ever seen! Everything about this lunch is beyond beautiful and speaks to the deepest parts of me. The classic elegance that many just pay lip service to is truly here.
We don’t want to leave!
Lunch stretches out a bit too long and we speed-walk back, weaving through people-filled streets to catch our ship before it sails. Walking up the gangplank we look at each other knowing we just want to stay here.
No longer do I have to share my love of Lisbon from a soapbox -Trevor now does it for me.
